Angler catches you even before you walk through its front door. As you approach the restaurant, which is near the waterfront on San Francisco’s Embarcadero, you’re greeted by a stream of 1980s pop music that leaks out onto the sidewalk, drenching you in the likes of Toto and Hall & Oates. The soundtrack continues inside, where the main dining room (there is also a private dining room, called the game room) is dominated by a 32-foot hearth and grill on which the majority of the menu is cooked over open flames. On an early evening in November, both hearth and dining room were in full swing. Six weeks after its opening, Angler was one of the most desirable reservations in town. It’s the second restaurant from What casual means here is an à la carte menu, “Hip to Be Square” on the loudspeakers, wood-paneled walls bedecked with the disembodied heads of wild animals, heated toilet seats in the bathroom, private-batch caviar sourced from Sacramento, and $3 butter that has been house-cultured for two weeks from the milk of local cows, including some of Mr. Skenes’s own. “The parts that are casual are that it’s a very fun environment,” Mr. Skenes… Read full this story
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